Indo-Portuguese Food and Indian Classics

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Goan tandoori shrimp is popular at the restaurant even though the dish is not traditionally made in Goa. Mr. Gudhino seasons the shrimp with a spicy-sour-sweet paste.

Caitlin Ochs for The New York Times

Indo-Portuguese Food and Indian Classics

At Cardamom, a restaurant in Queens, the chef Alwyn Gudhino cooks a handful of dishes from his home state, Goa.