Norway’s second city in size after Oslo, Bergen is known above all for its UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Bryggen, the quayside warehouses, offices and dwellings where for centuries Hanseatic League merchants enriched themselves through the stockfish and grain trades. Today, Bergen is a popular summer cruise stop and launching point for the country’s famous western fjords.
What a surprise it is then to discover that Bergen in winter is practically tropical compared to what you expected, with the Gulf Stream bringing warmth and the city’s seven surrounding mountains blocking winds. All of which makes winter not only doable, but a great time for a visit without crowds. Here are some tips to plan ahead already for next winter.
On a stroll down the passageways between Bryggen's handsome wooden warehouses—now mostly occupied by clothing boutiques, craft and gift shops and restaurants—the fragility of the structures is readily apparent. As a result of oxidation of the soil, they lean precipitously, and are thus continuously monitored, while their matchbox nature has historically led to numerous destructive fires.
For a peek into life from the 14th-18th centuries of those German Hansa merchants, the Hanseatic Museum and and Schøtstuene is located on the Bryggen itself. The museum's separate Schøtstuene component is where the cooking and assembly halls of the league were kept apart out of prudence for that ubiquitous danger of fire.
At the end of the harbor and Bryggen area, the popular outdoor fishmarket is currently getting a makeover. Also currently undergoing renovation, the Bryggens Museum specializes in archaeological artifacts from Bergen's medieval era, much of its collection coming from finds that followed a fire in the 1950s.
Bergen's other grand attraction is the Fløibanen funicular that glides up to the top of Mt. Fløyen. The ride is just good fun in its own right, and while in winter the air might be bracing, the views from the observation platform are sweeping. The 1920s restaurant up there opens on winter weekends.
When you come back down and exit the funicular terminal, a quick left turn takes you down the stone Lille Øvregaten street where a row of modest old white houses with gabled roofs give you a fine idea of Bergen's 19th century look. This Vågsbunnen area was also the medieval center, once filled with guild shops.
Or, walk a few minutes south, past the park that surrounds the Lille Lungegårdsvannet lake, and you'll arrive at the city’s cluster of four handsome art museums that collectively are known under the rubric of KODE. While Edvard Munch continues to grow in world fame, the landscape painters J.C. Dahl and Nikolai Astrup on display here remain for now lesser-known outside of Norway.
All that walking leads to hunger. At Marg & Bein, a bistro whose interior mixes a light Scandinavian modern look with a rustic one, the meat and fish menu is traditional, with local farm fresh produce.
Also administered by KODE some miles outside of town, Troldhaugen, or "troll knoll" was the home of the celebrated composer Edvard Grieg. The lovely gingerbread home is reminiscent of those in San Francisco, and is filled with period furniture and his Steinway piano, as well as memorabilia and photos of VIPs of his day.
In winter, a walk down the knoll to Grieg's and his wife's cliffside tomb leads to fine views of the icy bay. In a modern complex adjacent to the house, a small museum concentrates on the intellectual and artistic movements of Grieg's era, while a concert hall looks over the bay as well.
Travel Notes:
At the end of the Bryggen where historic structures give way to more modern ones, the imposing early-20th-century building that is now the Clarion Collection Hotel Havnekontoret was originally the harbor office of a shipping company whose name is carved above the lintel. The clock tower is open for marvelous views over the harbor.
Conveniently located in the heart of town, the Thon Hotel Bristol has bright rooms. For lovers of Modernism, an upper room provides great views across the main Torgallmenningen square to the landmark-protected Sundt Department Store a fine Bauhaus-inspired structure that was built in 1938. Its soaring decorative tower supports a statue of the god Mercury.
Visitors wishing for a guided city tour can engage Bergen Guide Service.
As a base to Norway’s fjord-filled west coast, Bergen has ships coming and going year round. For those headed south, booking a cruise on the Fjord Line from Bergen to Stavanger, or on to Denmark and Oslo, promises a pleasurable journey on one of their small fleet's attractive new ships. From their à la carte restaurants to extensive buffets, the ship's cuisine is excellent, while the bar lounge's live music is performed by top talents.
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