There’s something hypnotizing about the way a sushi chef can meticulously craft a single piece of fish, or roll a perfectly symmetrical maki, gently place it in front of you, and then . . . do it all over again, and again, until the restaurant closes. And at Nobu, which has expanded to almost 30 locations worldwide (from Dallas to Dubai), that’s approximately 12,775 rolls every night. Chef Nobu Matsuhisa opened his first New York restaurant with business partner Robert De Niro in 1994, and this month they celebrated Nobu’s 20th anniversary.

As we’ve always had a spot in our hearts, and especially our stomachs, for Nobu’s yellowtail-jalapeño roll (an original and enduring menu item), we created a time-lapse video from Nobu Fifty Seven’s sushi-bar lineup, in the midst of dinner service, to observe the intensely talented knife work and technique of the chefs on the line. All of the chefs blushed when we set up the camera, asking for reassurance that we wouldn’t film their faces—and it said something about the modesty and humility of these anonymous sushi sculptors.

We also spoke with Chef Matsuhisa about California rolls, the wonder of pomodoro sauce, and Robert De Niro’s sushi-rolling skills, or lack thereof.

What are the first words that come to mind when I say “California roll”?

When I came to Los Angeles in 1979, the California roll was already there, and it is still very popular. Sometimes it is the first roll that people try because there is no raw fish—this is good because it helps many people try sushi for the first time.

Nobu has had so much success in the past 20 years, but what is one memory of a great disaster?

It is difficult to overlook the biggest moments without recognizing the hard times. I cannot speak of my past 20 years without mentioning the robbery that happened at my very first Nobu in Tribeca. I vividly remember the night when armed robbers broke into my restaurant as I was changing clothes in the office. They put a gun against the back of my head and told us to lie down on the floor. The feel of a gun . . . I cannot forget. I am very thankful that I did not lose any of my staff members.

Where are your favorite places in New York for Japanese street food?

When I am in New York, I don’t eat much Japanese street food. I eat with friends and go out to Chinatown or for Italian—salad and simple pasta in a light pomodoro sauce is my favorite.

What do you wish more New Yorkers would try?

I think New Yorkers are very adventurous eaters! They always want to try something new from the kitchen, from the sushi bar—this makes our omakase very popular, and our chefs love to make new things for our customers. Also, New Yorkers like to sit at the sushi bar—this is good! Sushi should be eaten at the sushi bar.

Has Robert De Niro ever tried to make sushi?

Impossible. Never ever in forever!