Known for exquisite embroidery and fabrics, it's not surprising that India holds its very own Couture Week.
The tenth edition of India Fashion Week (ICW) took place between 24 July and 30 July and celebrated the country’s absolute best in craftsmanship, tailoring and creativity.
“Our embroideries and hand done crafts have found a place on the world map too that is why it is imperative to promote the 'Make in India’ endeavour,” explains Sunil Sethi, President of the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI).
Traditionally, Indian couture is seen mainly as bridal couture since the assortment of lavish traditional garments paraded on the runway are often sought after by brides-to-be and their bridesmaids. However, designers are increasingly moving away from just showcasing bridal looks and interspersing their traditional range with more modern silhouettes to cater for a wider audience.
This is not surprising, given that the country now ranks as the 4th fastest growing economy in the world, and is home to an rising Middle Class who culturally like to dress to impress.
Designers at India Couture Week know that too well and hence never fail to put on a show especially those employing a showstopper at their runway – normally a top Bollywood celebrity would be the last to grace the runway as the finale decked in the most gorgeous statement piece of the collection.
But it's not all about the drama. India's growing couture scene has a lot to offer when it comes to style, craftsmanship and increasingly modern aesthetics that are more like 'Indian with a twist'.
Toping the list of India's top couturiers are these 5 designers whose impeccable work is a cut above the rest.
Manish Malhotra
Marking his fourth grand finale at ICW, Manish Malhotra closed the week with a sensual couture lineup. His creations are often an elegant blend of unapologetic glamor, luxuriant fabrics and intricate detailing that stands to impress at any moment. Explaining the collection, the designer said: "The intricacy of detailing, our strong textile history and vast knowledge of versatile drapes can be interpreted and worn from Mumbai to Milan.”
With a career spanning 27 years, Malhotra quickly rose the ranks through his work with the Bollywood industry. He now boasts being one of the first Indian luxury houses to have hit the INR 1 billion (approx. $15.6 million) turnover in 2014.
Tarun Tahiliani
As one of the first international Indian designers, Tarun Tahiliani was even regarded as the ‘Karl Lagerfeld of India’ by the late maverick stylist, Isabella Blow. Through his illustrious career as one of the founding members of FDCI, Tahiliani has presented runway shows around the world and is highly sought after by a fashionable and discerning clientele.
His signature creations include combining traditional Indian textiles with Western silhouettes that embody a definitive opulence and richness. For his latest couture collection, he employs a glamorous use of the finest Italian tulle, Chantilly lace and crystals from Swarovski in his designs.
Anita Dongre
Anita Dongre has risen to be one of the more business-savvy and creative designers in India. With her concept of 'effortless luxury', the Indian designer's collection featured a seamless blend of Indian craftsmanship with contemporary silhouettes.
And her appeal is global.
Right after the Duchess of Cambridge wore one of her dresses during the Royal visit to India, the designer was featured in international news and became the 7th most searched designer on Google in 2016. Not surprising then that the celebrated designer has also recently made her foray into the American market by opening her first store in New York City.
Anju Modi
The veteran designer - also one of the founding members of FDCI - is best known for melding different silhouettes into one creative masterpiece. Her works are often rooted in historic references and mythologies that bring you back in time to a period of regal princesses and queens.
As a relatively quiet but strong force in the industry, she also prides herself for working with pure fibres and eco-friendly vegetable dyes in her ensembles. At this year’s ICW, the show’s set up was similarly an environmentally-friendly ode to nature.
Rahul Mishra
As the International Woolmark Prize winner, Rahul Mishra may be a relatively young designer but he carries a lot of adoration from global big wigs. From Suzy Menkes, the International Editor of Vogue, regarding him as India's 'national treasure', to recently being featured in GQ India’s Power list of '50 Most Influential Indians', it's apparent that his work has gained impressive recognition and rightly so.
For his couture collection at ICW, the designs feature hand worked motifs and an intricate use of geometric patterns inspired by Persian, Roman and Byzantine architecture from centuries ago.
