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Hentley Farm Wines From Barossa Valley Show Vineyards Really Matter

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Credit: Nick Passmore

For most of its history Australia didn’t exactly have a glowing reputation for wine; it was known primarily for producing cheap (their one virtue) bastard versions of fortified wines like “Sherry” and “Port.” Their only export market was the UK where it was widely reviled, most notably in a Monty Python sketch.

Then, starting in the 1970’s, things changed dramatically as producers flooded the markets of, initially northern Europe, especially the UK, then later America, with huge quantities of reasonably priced, cleverly marketed, generic commercial wine. And good for them – it opened the wine world to millions of new, young consumers.

Credit: Nick Passmore

However, the Australian wine industry is nothing if not flexible, and these days there is a growing emphasis on more sophisticated styles, more polish and nuance, a response, at least in part, to the evolving palate of domestic, Australian that is, consumers.

One aspect of this is a growing realization of the importance of exactly where you plant your vines. If you want to make wines with personality as opposed to the bulk stuff, this is very important indeed.

Credit: Hentley Farm

Before Keith and Alison Hentschke bought Hentley Farm in Barossa Valley, Keith did extensive soil research, and results have paid off in spectacular fashion as I discovered in tasting seven Hentley Farm wines at dinner with Andrew Quin, the exuberant winemaker.

The attention Hentley Farm is paying to the different personalities of individual vineyards is on most appealing display in two bottlings of Shiraz from adjacent blocks, one named The Beauty, the other The Beast. The names are appropriately chosen, and the different personalities of the wines are explored in the tasting notes below.

This is serious, concentrated winemaking, artistic as well as commercial.

Hentley Farm Riesling 2016

Credit: Hentley Farm

Barossa Valley, Australia, $20

Bone dry in the typical Australian style, it’s a bit young and unintegrated at the moment, it needs time to settle down. Or so I thought. When tasted with a first course of ginger fluke crudo, it was transformed out of all recognition and made one half of a delectable, complimentary pairing. Definitely a food Riesling, not the aperitif version.

Hentley Farm Shiraz 2015

Credit: Hentley Farm

Barossa Valley, Australia, $28

Big and juicy, an appealing version of a Barossa Shiraz, along with enough structure to hold the whole thing together.

Hentley Farm Stray Mongrel, GSZ, 2015

Credit: Hentley Farm

Barossa Valley, Australia, $28

Grenache 57%, Shiraz 29%, Zinfandel 4%

A stunningly appealing, irresistibly seductive wine. Shows a remarkable level of complexity for one so young, and inexpensive – a personality due in part, I suspect, to the clever, unusual blend.

Hentley Farm The Old Ledged Grenache 2015

Credit: Hentley Farm

Barossa Valley $58

Again, a bit young, but this beauty shows an appealingly bright, red-fruit freshness, It displays the quintessential appeal of Grenache in its early years, but in five, perhaps ten, this is going to develop into a very serious, personality-filled wine.

Hentley Farms The Beauty Shiraz 2014

Credit: Hentley Farm

Barossa Valley, Australia. $58

Still big and assertive, but mellowed by a softening roundness thanks to being grown on flat land at 250 meters, the lowest block at Hentley Farms, right next to the cooling Greenock Creek, a fascinating contrast to The Beast……

Credit: Hentley Farm

Hentley Farms The Beast Shiraz 2014

Credit: Hentley Farm

Barossa Valley, Australia, $80

In the picture above The Beauty is from the flat vineyard in the foreground while The Beast is is grown in the sloping land beyond it. The difference might not seem that great, but it is. The Beast block is higher, gets more sun and has thinner soil, all resulting lower yields of angular, more punchy and assertive wine, a wine with a more pronounced personality. It’s not necessarily an approachable wine when young, but is a deeply serious, aficionado’s wine. A patient aficionado’s wine.

Hentley Farms Clos Otto Shiraz 2014

Credit: Hentley Farm

Barossa Valley, Australia $165

A huge Barossa Shiraz luxuriously plump with dark-berry fruit. So concentrated and jammy, so extracted and rich it has racked up major rating points triumphs in Australia – it’s just that sort of wine, and will stand shoulder to shoulder with big, concentrated Napa cult-Cabs.