London-raised, Rome-educated Bella Freud hails from one of Europe's more colorful and creative dynasties. Her great-grandfather was the godfather of psychoanalysis, Sigmund; her father, the legendary figurative painter Lucian Freud, who was renowned for the psychic intensity of his work. But the 56-year-old designer's aesthetic has always skewed a tad more playful: In 2014, she referenced her lineage with an intarsia wool sweater emblazoned with the word "Psychoanalysis," part of a collection that was spotted on gal pals Kate Moss and Alexa Chung. More recently, she's turned out covetable cashmere knits, candles, and fragrances bearing cheeky phrases such as "Ginsberg Is God" and "Good Times" that meld her tomboyish sensibilities with an enduring love of all things '70s.
After a late-'80s stint as a design assistant at Vivienne Westwood, Bella made her first big splash on the London fashion scene in 1990 with an eponymous line of tailored suits and sexy knit dresses that quickly garnered her the Most Innovative Designer award at the 1991 London Fashion Awards. That was followed by a gig as head of womenswear at Biba in the aughts and a range of creative collaborations, including a 1999 fashion film with John Malkovich (a medium in which Freud still occasionally works). Despite her varied résumé, Freud had never worked in denim—though it had long been on her to-do list—until now. In partnership with J Brand, she's created a capsule collection of dress-it-up-or-down denim and knits that bridges the gap between low-key California bohemianism (button-front denim minis; Rosie the Riveter-esque jumpsuits) and a more glam European counterpart (mile-long, high-waisted indigo flares; Freud's signature-phrase sweaters, woven with a generous dose of gold Lurex). Recently, she took a break from a getaway at the fashion flock's favorite detox destination, Austria's Viva Mayr clinic, to dial in and talk design codes, fashion philosophies, and why we're #strongertogether.
1. It's in The Genes
"For me, Anita Pallenberg is the person I refer back to most frequently. She's just a genius at putting things together, like denim cutoffs with a gold Lurex sweater and jewelry. She's rock 'n' roll while being really chic. Ella Richards, her granddaughter [and the star of the Bella Freud x J Brand lookbook], has the same stylish self-confidence. She looked as though she'd been born in the jumpsuit we put her in."
2. Strength in Femininity
"I like the way, in the moment, we seem very connected. Particularly right now, with the Women's March, I'm drawn to feminine things that are also really powerful and strong. Those two elements exist very happily together. You can be interested in women's rights and be interested in your body and your looks. They go hand in hand, as far as I'm concerned."
3. Youthquake
"In my childhood—particularly in the school I went to [a Steiner school in Forest Row, East Sussex, England]—people weren't at all into fashion. Fashion being treated in a sort of scornful way had an effect on me. I was always interested in the way you could dress yourself and feel confident and strong—even in jeans and a jumper [sweater], even if you were feeling insecure and neurotic. That's always intrigued me a lot."
4. Where the Boys Are
"I'm really into boyish style, but not masculine style. For me, boyishness still has a bit of girl in it. Our cropped 'Boy Girl' jeans have boyish slim legs and are a bit short, as if you've grown too quickly. The low rise and wide waistband make them sexy and a bit raunchy. On the other hand, I wanted to try to make a jean that works for as many shapes as possible, and I think the wide-leg 'Jane' does. Dress it up for night with a velvet jacket, gold sandals, and gold hoops. I named it for Jane Birkin—she really knew how to make denim glamorous."
5. Everyone Remembers…
"The first pair of jeans you bought that just worked—a certain cut that enhances all your good features. I'm partial to a '70s wide-leg that gives a relaxed feeling while making your butt look really pert and small."
This article originally appears in the July 2017 issue of ELLE.
