Review: Cuixmala

Why book?

At this Puerto Vallarta escape, you’re just as likely to see a celebrity sunbathing as you are to spot a zebra sipping unhurriedly from a trough of water; in either scenario, you'll be sun-kissed with hair that smells like saltwater and sunscreen, on your way to the bar for a deftly mixed margarita with views of the coastline while wild pigs roam idly by.

Set the scene

Drive the winding roads along mainland Mexico’s west coast, and you will come upon an unassuming outbuilding the color of a Creamsicle, set beside a pair of unremarkable gates. Moments later, as your vehicle makes the bumpy climb up the winding road leading into Cuixmala, you will wonder if you have the wrong address. (And a complete lack of cell phone service will make that impossible to check.) But soon you will come upon a fork in the road marked by a manicured patch of cacti, and from there, any number of roads to Cuixmala’s various lavish housing options. Pull up to yours to find a smattering of couples or families splayed out on pool chairs as though they’ve been given two of whatever knocked Sleeping Beauty out, and a coterie of friendly concierge ready to escort you to bliss. 

If you’re staying in one of Cuixmala’s tucked-away Casitas, you may choose to spend much of the ensuing stay on your private porch, looking out over the lagoon. There you should allow the concert of birdsong and tree-flutters and buzzing, clicking insects to coax your shoulders down from around your ears, as you sip an Americano or something stronger. (Room service is readily available and fairly immediate; mini bars are also stocked with essentials, like tequila, and coffee grounds from Cuixmala’s sibling property’s mountain farm.) If you do feel the need to venture back out into the world, the resort offers excursion options aplenty. There is sea-side lunch at Cuixmala’s private beach, or a boat ride around Costa Alegre, or a tennis lesson, or a tour of Las Hortalizas, where a team of farmers grows much of the food you’ll consume onsite. Don’t leave before you pay a visit to the animal sanctuary, where several dozen zebras, eland, and crocodiles roam free. 

The backstory

The thousands of lolling, verdant acres that would become Cuixmala were originally purchased by notorious billionaire corporate raider Sir James Goldsmith. When he passed away in the late 1990s, his daughter Alix Marcaccini converted the sprawling property into a hotel. Today, Marcaccini owns both Cuixmala and its sibling property, Hacienda de San Antonio, an impeccably restored horse ranch and coffee farm three hours drive into the mountains of Colima. 

The rooms

Even excluding the enormous Chamela-Cuixmala Biosphere Reserve it sits within, Cuixmala is expansive. The property comprises 40 rooms in total between Casa Cuixmala — a grand beachfront building reminiscent of Sintra’s Palácio da Pena, if the set designer for Glass Onion had a go at it — and a number of bungalows, casitas, and larger Villas spread throughout the property. Each guest room, as well as the numerous common spaces, strike a balance between severely smart and easily comfortable; expansive white walls are punctuated by arched windows and doors that offer views of the ocean that could be paintings; you can’t make it more than twenty feet without encountering a cozy padded white linen bench, beckoning you for a nap; design flourishes seem to take a cue from Moorish castles. Rooms start from $715 for a one bedroom casita.

Food and drink

The best dining at Cuixmala happens on its private beach Caleta Blanca, a 20-minute drive from the lodging; there, ceviche is fresh and sharp, fish tacos bring together crunchy carapace and suede-soft flour tortillas. On the hotel property, there are several options for dining, including Casa Gomez—which mainly serves guests of the Casitas—and La Loma, a more upscale restaurant at Casa Cuixmala. (La Loma can be reserved in advance if guests are staying on other parts of the property.) Cheese, which comes from Cuixmala’s sibling hotel’s Rancho Jabalí, is a high point. So too is the first meal of the day. The banana bread served with breakfast is soft and mildly sweet, and you’ll think about it for weeks after you depart. When in doubt, lean toward the produce; some 80 percent of the ingredients at Cuixmala come from the property’s own organic and biodynamic farms. 

The spa

Upon first glance at its grounds map, one might incorrectly conclude that there is no spa at Cuixmala. But the spa is simply decentralized; yoga and sound healing with sweeping views of the wild are on offer on one hilltop; in-room massages may be booked on short order. 

The neighborhood/area

While most visitors don’t stray from the rambling property and its private beaches, you could reach neighboring Careyes by car in a matter of minutes. 

The service

Service at Cuixmala manages to be equal parts low-key and comprehensive. At any moment, a fleet of friendly and knowledgeable staff members are available in person and by WhatsApp to answer questions, provide directions, arrange excursions, or craft that mythological mezcal cocktail that toes the line between bracingly acerbic and just sweet enough. 

For families

While the property isn’t child-proofed—there are quite a few sets of stairs, and scenic overlooks—children are welcome, and regularly visit Cuixmala. 

 Eco effort

Cuixmala is located within a 36,000 acre dry tropical forest. It’s no coincidence that this is where James Goldsmith chose to headquarter his private vacation retreat; environmental conservation was one of his main causes, and before his death, he donated the surrounding wild land to the National Autonomous University of Mexico’s Chamela-Cuixmala Biosphere Reserve. Today, the Reserve is home to 1,200 species of plants, 270 species of birds, and more than 150 species of mammals, reptiles, and amphibians. The Cuixmala Ecological Foundation focuses on research, as well as the protection of species and ecological processes within the Reserve, and sustainable practices within the resort.

 
Accessibility 

Unfortunately, most accommodations are not ADA compliant. 

Anything left to mention

The hotel staff treat the sunset as though it’s a mandatory part of a typical day (you wake up, you have something to eat, you get fresh air, you watch the sunset, and you sleep; everything else is optional). That’s because at Cuixmala, it is. The sky turns from Tiffany blue to a slowly rendered collection of sorbet-colored streaks before, almost all at once, going dark.