China tries to build a coherent system of national parks

ONE need only drive 30km west from the bustling heart of downtown Nanjing—population about 7m—to reach the shady sanctuary of the Laoshan National Forest Park (pictured). But on a recent sparkling autumn afternoon only a trickle of visitors had come to enjoy the abundant birdsong, the scent of pines and the rustle of falling ginkgo leaves. Unlike many of China’s wilderness attractions, Laoshan has eschewed the hurly-burly of market stalls and other facilities intended to cater to a crush of tourists. There are simple wooden steps installed here and there, but no concrete staircases, iron railings or trails festooned with coloured pennants and loudspeakers playing soppy music.

Roughly 18% of China is given over to national parks or protected areas of some sort. But there is no overarching system for managing or even designating such places; instead, they are subject to a complicated, overlapping and haphazard mix of local, provincial and national administration. Laoshan is a case in point. Since its establishment in 1991, its official status has changed multiple times, from a provincial scientific reserve to an environmental one to an “AAA-level touristic scenic spot”. Its current “national park” designation only appears on some signs.