Spending a night at “Priest’s Hole”, a cave hidden high up on the side of a fell called Dove Crag, is almost a rite of passage for outdoors aficionados. This isn’t a dark, scary tunnel deep in the mountainside; it’s merely a shallow overhang, big enough to keep the wind and rain at bay, but open enough to prevent any claustrophobia. On a clear day, while sitting inside, it’s like having a penthouse view over the northern Lake District. Upon arrival, you’ll feel almost as though you’ve stumbled into a bothy: there’s usually a collection of tarps or groundsheets left by previous users, occasionally some camping stove gas canisters (usually left because there’s some gas remaining), and even a plastic box containing a visitors’ book and a pen, so you can record your visit.
Top tip
Caves are not naturally dry places and Priest’s Hole has a wide opening. Make sure you take a waterproof bivvy for your sleeping bag, plenty of warm layers and hot food and drink. You could consider bringing a piece of tarp to lay under your camping mat as the floor is rocky and sharp in places.
Pre-trip
Once in the cave, it’s unlikely you’ll want to keep climbing up and down to fetch water, so take a good supply. The nearest village is in Patterdale, where you can buy food and drink. For more in the way of camping supplies, head to either Windermere/Ambleside (south) or Keswick/Penrith (north) before you set off.
Public transport
The nearest you can get to the start of your adventure using public transport is the Patterdale Hotel, around 5km from the start. Take the Stagecoach Bus 108 (one every four hours) from Penrith, which is well served both by buses and National Rail. You can walk or get a taxi from Patterdale to the start.
The plan
Day 1
1. Leaving the car park via the gate in the southwest corner, follow the wide track where it passes under trees on the edge of Brothers Water. This is clear and easy to follow until you reach the farm at Hartsop Hall.
2. Once at the farm, walk past the buildings and you will see the path fork. Take the fainter track on the far right, which begins to climb uphill.Things can get muddy at this point. Follow it above the wall line and over some very old stiles and ruined gates, climbing as you go. The trees eventually give way to open fellside and you then meet the water of Dovedale Beck.
3. Don’t cross the bridge to the beck’s southern bank, but keep the beck to your left and continue along the path. The track begins to climb over rocks and boulders, and you’ll note the spoil of old buildings to your right. It’s around this point that, looking uphill in clear conditions, you’ll get your first glimpse of the cave to which you’re heading: it appears as a dark, egg-shaped shadow near the top of the crag and just right of centre. The path steepens considerably here until the ground begins to level out and becomes grassier. You should see a large boulder ahead: walk to this.
4. Look left from the boulder and you should be able to make out a rough path – almost like a sheep track – that curves up and around the side of the rocks to the left. Head for that, towards the rocks in front of you. You’ll need to use your hands in a couple of places, but it gets no more technical than that. After about five minutes, you should find yourself at the entrance to Priest’s Hole, your room for the night.
Day 2
5. After remembering to fill in the visitors’ book – and taking out any excess rubbish you can carry – carefully retrace your steps back down to the big boulder you left yesterday. If you’re in a rush, you can simply return to the car, following the same route you took up. If you have time, however, continue uphill to the col between the peaks of Dove Crag and Hart Crag.
6. Wainwright baggers will probably first want to nip southeast to summit the mountain inside which they have just camped. From there, you can retrace your steps to the col and then continue for a final push up to the summit of Hart Crag.
7. From Hart Crag, take the obvious track northeast that follows the ridge along Hartsop Above How. This path steadily loses height then drops to the north of Low Wood.
8. Turn onto the road and walk back the short distance to Cow Bridge and your start point.
Further information
Taken from Wilderness Weekends: Wild Adventures in Britain’s Rugged Corners, published by Bradt for £14.99. The publisher is offering Guardian readers a 35% discount on the book; visit bradtguides.com and enter the code GUARDIAN at the checkout. Offer valid until 31 May 2015
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