High-end independent watchmakers face an uphill struggle. Firstly, the pool of wealthy collectors passionate about the timepieces they offer is rather small, and they don’t benefit from economies of scale as their annual production run is often extremely limited, producing no more than a few hundred pieces per year and a couple dozen pieces of any given design, while the large brands are churning out complementary watch lines using the same manufacturing processes in the tens of thousands that bring down their costs further. Concerning distribution, it’s not always easy for independents to get their products to market either, as not all retailers are ardent advocates of independent watchmaking, preferring to stick to tried-and-tested brands.
In light of this, rather than launching fundamentally new pieces every year, independents have been offering variations in dial designs or case materials of existing watches. Another way they have been appealing to additional buyers lately is by introducing “simpler” timepieces or never-before-seen complications at attractive price points, broadening their product range without compromising on quality and inventiveness, all while maintaining a clear and consistent brand identity – often in response to customer demand for more attainable yet original watches. We have to remember that the prices of these haute horlogerie timekeepers are not at all cheap though – we’re talking about a reduction from six or seven figures to five figures. The entry-level price for independents’ watches is altogether different from the big brands’ introductory pieces, which may start at a couple thousand dollars. So while the independents’ watches may indeed be vastly lower-priced than their usual offerings, they’re not exactly affordable for everyone.
Christophe Claret Maestro
With its unique cone-shaped large date display, 3-D memo function reminding the wearer of a commitment and seven-day power reserve, the Maestro ($76,000 in rose gold and $68,000 in titanium) is a perfect example of an independent making a timepiece in response to increasing consumer demand for more affordable, everyday wear watches. Before its arrival, most of Christophe Claret’s men’s complications were priced above CHF140,000. The Soprano with 60-second tourbillon and minute repeater with Westminster chimes and Allegro minute repeater with cathedral gongs, GMT with day/night indicator, big date and small seconds retail for $476,000 and $268,000, respectively, while the eight-piece limited-edition X-Trem-1 Sting HD in black PVD-treated titanium featuring an inclined flying tourbillon with retrograde hours and minutes display system based on magnetic fields sells for $278,000. Today, the brand is one of the few independent watch manufacturers capable of mastering the entire haute horlogerie production process, employing almost 100 experts in over 30 disciplines and producing 100 watches yearly.
Thanks to Claret’s discussions with collectors worldwide, he discovered that there was an expectation for a Christophe Claret complicated watch at a more affordable price, especially among young collectors. And thus the idea for the Maestro was born to attract new customers, particularly those with smaller budgets. “Listening to collectors lets us know the market trend and what they appreciate the most,” notes Claret. “They are particularly fond of watches with innovations. I think independent watchmakers today, but especially tomorrow, will have their cards to play based on their creativity, which corresponds to the current demand of many collectors. The biggest challenge for independent watchmakers is to have sufficient financial resources to promote their brand through social media, printed media and points of sale.” He is open to creating new watches in the Maestro’s price range.
Check back next week for Part 2 featuring a second independent watchmaker making more accessible haute horlogerie timepieces.
