Lamb and Winter Squash Soup

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Season lamb on all sides with salt. Let sit for 1 hour at room temperature or chill, uncovered, for up to 12 hours (longer is better; overnight works great).

   Step 2

   Preheat oven to 400°. Roast chile on a rimmed baking sheet until puffy and it smells toasty, about 2 minutes. Remove seeds and place chile in a blender along with 1 cup hot water.

   Step 3

   Heat broiler. Scatter onion and garlic on same rimmed baking sheet. Broil, undisturbed, until blackened on top (don’t worry if they get super dark), 12–14 minutes. Pop garlic out of skins and place garlic and onion in blender with chile. Purée until smooth but still speckled with chile; set aside.

   Step 4

   Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high. Working in batches, cook lamb, turning occasionally until brown on all sides, 12–14 minutes total. Using a slotted spoon, transfer lamb to a plate. Carefully pour off oil and return lamb to pot. Add bay leaves, allspice, coriander, cumin, and oregano and cook, stirring to coat lamb, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Pour in 6 cups water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a bare simmer; mostly cover with lid (you want a little space for steam to escape) and cook, stirring occasionally, until lamb is tender, 60–75 minutes.

   Step 5

   Add squash to stew and cook until almost tender, 6–8 minutes. Stir in onion-chile purée, season with salt, and cook 10 minutes to let flavors meld. Taste and season with more salt if needed.

   Step 6

   Ladle stew into bowls and top with feta and cilantro. Serve with lime wedges.

   Step 7

   Do Ahead: Stew (without feta and cilantro) can be made 3 days ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. Add feta and cilantro just before serving.