Does anyone know how to replace the mount? Does it require a special tool to press it in ? Couldn't find the answer anywhere

I just had it replaced and I am told it required a special BMW tool that my Indy borrowed from the dealer. That isn't to say you couldn't do it without it but I personally would want to use the tool if doing the job myself !

thanks for clarifying. I wonder what this tool is and what it does. I don't believe the mount if pressed in there.

The transfer case mount is press fit.

Here are instructions and pictures of the "special tool" for 525XI, would be same or very similar in e90 3 series XI:

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/5_se...ounting_(awd)/

http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/5_se...awd)/page_695/


Basically the tool is like a bushing or ball joint remover/installer tool, but the difference and difficulty comes from the not flat but odd shaped transfer case on one end of it where the mount goes in. If you look at the pictures of the transfer case, or get under the car and look at the real thing you will see what I mean.

I just replaced this a few months ago and made my own version of this tool. Lets just say the job is a bi6ch without it.

Everything about it was a nightmare, its easy to get to the mount but pressing it in was another story.

If you are not 100% sure this is your problem steer clear. I had 100k on mine, fbo, and it was in great shape, probably good for another 100.

+1

I too at one point had intended to replace it when I was replacing my engine mounts. Had bought a new mount, removed the t-case cross member. Then seeing how it was pressed in and how the shape of the t-case was there not flat I backed off and returned the new mount. The mount on the car was also in good shape upon close inspection at that time.

There is a very thin section of the rubber, like membrane, on the mount on both sides of the center hole, and those gets ripped once used on the car. But that is just normal wear and it probably happened the very first few days of driving and new mount would have get ripped there in a few days also.

Thanks everyone for your input, I guess I'll steer clear for now. My problem is that sometimes under load it feels like the whole drive train is something.. My shocks are very old so maybe that's my problem or maybe the engine mounts ?

I had mine replaced prophylactically when we did the 335is clutch but the old transmission mount looked in very good shape at 113K miles. Honestly it didn't need to be repaced but since we were in there…

We also replaced motor mounts with 335is mount on the passenger and the standard on the driver which I would think is advisable at that mileage. I read somewhere that the turbo salesman whose name shall not be spoken said that you can use the 335is passenger side motor mount (stiffer) on both sides with good results for whatever it's worth. I don't think the motor mount job on the XI is a picnic though. I believe the book says it's a 4 hour job.

If your shocks are original and the car is high milage, it's a great place to start.

My car is a tight machine at this point with TC Kline single adjustable in the front and dual adjustable coilovers in the rear.

The next tightening is the strongflex yellow poly bushings in the front thrust arms which many here have done. Funny how things don't change, I remember constantly changing the thrust arm bushings with all kinds of fancy upgraded ones in my E28 many years ago although I think those hydrobushings were much more problematic than these E9X hydrobushings which I understand fail typically when you drive into a hole which I wouldn't describe as a design defect.

If you feel there is something amiss in the driveline, the problem is more likely the guibio (flexdisk) or also check the center support bearing (driveshaft).

Good luck !

Changing the motor mount on a xi isn't that bad of a job. Lowering the subframe and jacking up the motor gives you enough room to take out the motor mount. How was the driver side mount when you took it out and replaced it ? Yes 335is mounts do fit on both sides

I bought my car with 106K miles and the car had been pretty well maintained. The only thing the car really needed was shocks and a clutch (of course it had some wastegate rattle). The mounts didn't look bad at all and may have already been replaced, don't know. I did notice an improvement in the driveline and chassis dynamic after replacement.

It's a BMW, spend the money on the harbor freight engine support ($80) or borrow one rather than jacking the engine and risking damage. I didn't do the job myself as I'm reaching the point where I'm not wrenching so much anymore. Probably isn't too bad but the XI is tight. I did the waterpump and thermostat without dropping anything or removing the wheel but it was incredibly tight and required finesse and I was pretty proud of myself. I'm guessing it's not too bad but as I mentioned, I'm told BMW books 4 hours to do the job.

Yes I also do water pump and thermostat the same way you did lol. It definitely took finesse

Check the front driveshaft u-joints and check the front axle CV joints. I was having very bad vibrations and found out that the left front axle CV joint was bad/broken. I couldn't tell by just grabbing it while it was in the car still. I had to remove it to really tell that the joint was bad. Check my thread for more info.

Is there a DIY on how to replace the motor mount on xDrive?

There is one for N52 X-drives:

http://www.rmeuropean.com/bmw-e90-en...placement.aspx

They do it with an engine hoist (support will also do) but I have done it with a jack lifting up the engine from oil pan with a piece of 2x4 lumber as buffer.

There is a DIY for RWD E90 at PelicanParts DIY articles section, almost same method but they didn't have to remove the fuel line protection bracket, and loosen the fuel line clamping bracket there. This is needed in XI because the front drive shaft takes real estate there.

For 335xi's you can follow these as I guide I think, but passenger side is more crowded due to turbos being there, some member here had mentioned one time at a thread. He had lowered the frame to take it out I think. Don't remember the details, you can search for it.

There probably is idk for sure

Yes lowering the subframe and jacking up the motor is all it took