Istanbul: Belle of the Bosphorus

A weekend in Paris, London or Rome? Make mine Istanbul.

When it comes to city escapes, the Turkish capital may be gathering an increasingly touristy buzz but it still largely remains Europe's most unheralded epic metropolis. An electric bijoux-box of cuisine and culture mixed with bargain basement fares? I discovered that an off-season trip of Eastern promise is an idea to fall for.

Neighbourhood watch

As a debutant in town, I made the historic old town of Sultanahmet my base and the central Uyan Hotel my trusty abode. Aside from the expected East-meets-West scenes of Burka-clad women strolling past Lady Gaga concert billboards, the atmosphere here was remarkably homely; quirky streets, historic wooden townhouses, and cute coffee shops all creating a surprise Seattle-on-the-Bosphorus vibe.

The wake-up call

You don't need wake-up calls when your balcony swings towards one of the world's most beautiful houses of worship. With a Turkish coffee down the hatch, the evocative chant of the Fajr call to prayer ushered me towards Sultan Ahmet Mosque, its minarets piercing teasingly piercing above the cobbled alleyways. Unlike the historic Hagia Sofia just across the park, Sultan Ahmet remains a functioning mosque and is best visited just before or after the traditional Salat prayer times. Inside, I marvelled beneath its mesmerising blue-mosaic domes, the morning light flickering through the chambers. Hard to believe there's a 15 million strong city out there while you're lost in this moment.

Spa therapy

For travellers who like a little pampering in their itinerary, thankfully, massage and exfoliation famously forms part of the Turkish daily grind so hamam bargains abound. Steer clear of the flyer-touting hawkers around the main sites and get your indulgence off the beaten track. I headed to the hole-in-the-wall joint of Kadirga on 69 Sultanahmet where inside a gathering of moustachioed gents watching a Galatasary game instantly hailed its legitimacy. Soon I was being heftily massaged by a barrel-chested chap called Artun who chased his treatment with a serving of mint tea (€17 for the lot).

The Bazaar and sublime

What makes Istanbul truly unique is that its greatest blockbuster attractions are not just arbitrary tourist sites for the Red Bus brigade, but rather integral parts of the city's daily heartbeat. None perhaps more so than the Grand Bazaar; the city's labyrinthine market mecca which carpets over 5000 stalls. If shopping for jasmine soap or incense isn't your bag, the hustle can also be enjoyed from one of the bazaar's numerous stall-side cafes. Try grabbing some brunch local style with a hearty helping of menemen - a deliciously spicy Turkish omelette served in an authentic copper pan.

After hours

Istanbul practically invented the term shabby chic, and the district of Beyoglu is loaded with both. Nargelim is one of the area's myriad shisha-bars offering an authentic culture fix of Turkish downtime. I wrapped my stay cushioned between with some friendly locals, throwing backgammon dice and puffing on a Turkish Delight blend. You'll probably be back for a second.

Getting there

Turkish Airlines (www.turkishairlines.com) operate flights from Dublin to Istanbul daily with their early departure and late arrival times offering an added plus for those considering a long weekend break. Keep an eye out the airline’s €189 promo return fare which runs from November until May (excl. Christmas & Easter).

Where to stay: Rates at Hotel Uyan (www.uyanhotel.com) in central Sultanahmet start from a bargain €37pps. The hotel also offers a handy free airport pick-up transfer service for guests staying three nights or more.

Travel tip: Nothing can take the wind out of your flying carpet like being fleeced while scouting for a bargain in Istanbul’s markets. When haggling for your leather or lanterns at the Grand Bazaar, always aim to shoot for 50pc or less of the original asking price or take your hard-earned Turkish Liras elsewhere.

More info: www.goturkey.com