How to Style African Hair

Co-authored by Courtney Foster

Last Updated: January 31, 2023 References

While everyone should take good care of their hair, African hair requires extra care and attention. African hair tends to grow slowly, and since it has low water content, it also breaks easily. Whether you have natural or chemically-treated hair, properly care for and style your hair so that it is healthy and always looks its best!^{[1]
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Method 1

Method 1 of 4:

Preparing Your Hair for Styling

1
Get the right hair products. Use products formulated for your hair’s texture. African hair can be straight, wavy, curly, or kinky. So if you have dry, curly hair, for example, consider using a moisturizing shampoo.^{[2]
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Expert Source

Courtney Foster
Licensed Cosmetologist

Expert Interview. 9 December 2019.} The products you use should contain natural moisturizers, such as olive oil or shea butter.^{[3]
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- When washing a child’s hair, use age-appropriate products. Use gentle shampoos and conditioners that are moisturizing and tear-free.
2
Wash your hair. Wet your hair under the facet or with a spray bottle. Squirt a dime- to quarter-sized drop of moisturizing shampoo into your hand and apply directly to your scalp. Rinse your hair with water. Always follow shampoo with a conditioner.
- Since African hair tends to be dry, it doesn't need to be shampooed every day. It is important, however, to wash your hair every 7-14 days.
- If your hair is excessively dry, just condition it instead. This is known as “co-washing” or “no-pooing.” It is ideal for curly and straight hair types.^{[4]
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After you wash and condition your hair, gently pat the hair with a towel to stop the dripping. Microfiber towels work best, but an old t-shirt will do if you don't have a microfiber towel nearby. Never rub a towel against your hair, this will result in frizz and damage.
4
Apply a leave-in-conditioner. Squeeze the leave-in-conditioner into your hand and coat your hair in a nourishing and moisturizing product. This will help to seal the moisture into your hair and leave it feeling soft. Leave-in-conditioners help to detangle your hair, while allowing you to manage frizz or flyaways.
- Look for products with natural moisturizers, like avocado oil and shea butter.
- Skip this step if your hair is very fine or excessively oily.
5
Deep condition your hair. Applying a deep conditioner will improve the look and feel of dry or damaged hair.^{[5]
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Expert Source

Courtney Foster
Licensed Cosmetologist

Expert Interview. 9 December 2019.} Apply the product to your damp hair. Start at the ends of your hair and work your way up the shaft. Cover your head with a plastic cap. Activate the product with a heated plastic cap, a blow-dryer set on low, or a hood dryer set on low for 10-30 minutes. Then, rinse with cold water.^{[6]
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- You may deep condition your hair anywhere from twice a week to two times a month.
- There are two types of deep conditioning treatments, a moisturizing treatment and a protein-based treatment.
- Always search for a product with a high pH, which will help open your cuticles.
6
Detangle your hair. Starting at the nape of the neck and working your way toward the forehead, part your hair using the end of a "rat-tail" comb or your fingers. Separate your hair into 2 inches (5.1 cm) by 2 inches (5.1 cm) square sections. Gently comb each section to detangle it, starting at the ends and gradually working your way up to the roots. Apply a very small amount of your favorite hair oil to each section as you comb it.
- Be careful--when hair is damp, it is very fragile. If needed, use a spray bottle filled with water to re-wet hair, as dry hair is more difficult to manage and detangle.
Before subjecting your hair to the heat of your blow dryer, always apply a heat protectant.If you have natural, unrelaxed hair that you don’t plan on straightening, air-drying is the ideal method. If you have relaxed hair, dry your hair with a soft bonnet or hood dryer. Blow drying your natural hair will leave your locks looking smooth and shiny.
8
Straighten your hair. After bonnet drying or blow drying your hair, straighten your hair with a flat iron. Apply a heat protectant spray that moisturizes your hair.^{[7]
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Expert Source

Courtney Foster
Licensed Cosmetologist

Expert Interview. 9 December 2019.} Starting from the back of hair and working forward, gently part the hair into 1 or 2 inch (2.5 or 5.1 cm) thick parts. Use the straightener on each section. Move the wand in smooth, quick motions. Spritz shine spray on your straightened hair to finish the process.^{[8]
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- All types of hair can be straightened, so it doesn’t matter what texture you have. You can even use a flat iron to add sheen to relaxed hair!
- Use a high-quality ceramic flat iron. Make sure you use a tool that lists its temperature--this will allow you to monitor and control the heat.
- When using a straightener on relaxed or color treated hair, heat the wand to a temperature between 280°F to 320°F.
- When straightening wavy, curly, and kinky hair, set the flat iron to a temperature between 300°F to 350°F.
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Method 2

Method 2 of 4:

Relaxing Your Hair

1
Prep your hair for the treatment. Three to 5 days before using a relaxer, clarify your hair. Shampoo your hair to get rid of products built up on your scalp. You may use a shampoo with sulfates, which will leave the hair extremely dry, or a shampoo without sulfates. Follow the shampoo with a rinse-out-conditioner and a protein based deep conditioning treatment.
- For hair that has minimal breakage, use a light protein based treatment. A reconstructive hair mask is a great option. For hair with moderate breakage, apply a product that contains a lot of protein--look for keratin and amino acids on the ingredients list.
2
Base your scalp. Divide your hair into four equal sections, parting your hair in the center and then from ear to ear. Keep each section separate with four hair clips. Put on rubber gloves. Part one of the sections into thin sub-sections. Place the nozzle of the scalp basing gel bottle directly on your scalp.
- Base helps protect your scalp from chemical burns and irritation.
Continue until you have completed all of the sections. Trace the tip of the base gel nozzle around your hairline, applying thin strips of gel. Don’t forget to cover the nape of your neck and behind your ears! Squeeze some of the gel into your gloved hand. Massage the product into each section.
4
Apply the relaxer. Place a towel around your shoulders. Beginning with one of the back sections, divide the hair into 1 inch (2.5 cm) horizontal sub-sections. Put on rubber gloves. Dip the applicator brush into the relaxer. Start at the scalp and coat each side of the 1 inch (2.5 cm) sub-sections with the product. Do not apply the product past the line of demarcation--the point at which new growth meets previously relaxed hair. Repeat until each section is complete.
- Apply the product quickly--do not spend more than 5 minutes per section.
With your gloved hands. comb through the hair coated in the product with your fingers--do not pass the line of demarcation. Comb and smooth the product into your hair until the line of demarcation vanishes. This may take up to 10 minutes.
This should remove the majority of the chemical product. Apply the neutralizing shampoo and conditioner supplied in your kit. Rinse out the neutralizer and repeat. Remove the excess water from your hair with a fresh towel. Deep condition your hair, letting the product soak in for 20 to 30 minutes. Rinse your hair and apply a leave-in-conditioner.

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Method 3

Method 3 of 4:

Coloring Your Hair

1
Prep your hair for the treatment. One to two weeks before dying your hair, apply a protein-based treatment. Do not wash your hair the day before or the day of your treatment. This will result in the removal of your natural hair oils. Your hair will be left dry and prone to damage.^{[9]
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- For hair that has minimal breakage, use a light protein based treatment. A reconstructive hair mask is a great option.
- For hair with moderate breakage, apply a product that contains a lot of protein--look for keratin and amino acids on the ingredients list.
There are five types of hair dyes to choose from. If you are looking for short-term color, try a color rinse or a temporary coloring product. Semi-permanent coloring products are a great chemical-free option. Demi-permanent products have a small amount of peroxide, which sustains the color through 24 washes. Permanent hair dyes contain ammonia and peroxide. The strong chemicals allow the color to last for a long time!
You may either have a professional color your hair at the salon or you may do it yourself at home. Either way, always follow the instructions!^{[10]
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Method 4

Method 4 of 4:

Styling Your Hair

1
Dreadlock your hair. Dreadlocks are fashionable and work well for both men and women. There are several different types of dreadlocks to choose from, including finger twists and freeform dreadlocks. Finger twists are achieved by sectioning the hair into equal 1 inch (2.5 cm) to 2 inches (5.1 cm) parts, twisting each section with beeswax or gel on your fingertips, and clipping sections together to prevent unraveling. Freeform dreadlocks will develop naturally if you don’t wash, moisturize, or comb your hair for 2 to 3 weeks.^{[11]
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- When caring for dreads, shampoo and condition your hair every three weeks using products designed for dreadlocks. To combat the growth of bacteria between washings, wipe dreads and scalp with an astringent-soaked cotton ball or pad.^{[12]
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- Moisturize locks using natural oils or oil-based products. Wrap your locks in a satin cloth while you sleep to maintain moisture.
- Short dreads are easier to maintain than long dreads.
2
Don a well-coiffed afro for a natural look! Because afros are subject to dryness and damage, shampoo and condition your hair once a week with moisturizing products. Once your hair has dried, comb it with a wide-toothed comb, pick, or use a brush with natural bristles. Gently comb your afro into tufts--one in the front, two on each side, one on top, and a few in the back.
- Combing and brushing will help spread the natural oils secreted by your scalp through your hair. If needed, apply oil to your hair.
- Add pretty and decorative combs, hair clips, and artificial flowers to accentuate your style.
3
Try a weave or extensions. When getting a weave or extensions, artificial hair is added to natural hair to improve natural hair’s appearance and combat hair loss in certain areas. While you should always have a professional put in a weave, you and your friends can experiment with putting extensions in each other’s hair. There are several different techniques to choose from:
- For a natural look, put in the extensions strand by strand. This time-consuming method requires between 50 to 100 strands. Extensions may be attached using bonding, clamping, shrink tubing, or micro tubing.
- Weft extensions are long tracks of hair. The hair is attached together at the top and freely hanging at the ends. They may be attached by several different methods including micro rings or glue. They may also be sewn into your hair.
- Taped weft extensions are newer. At the top of the extension, a piece of double-sided polyurethane tape holds the hair together. To attach it, one side of the tape is placed on the scalp. The extensions and your hair are then pulled up and another taped weft is placed underneath.
- If you are looking for a temporary change, try clip-on extensions. Simply clip the extension in place and unclip them when your day is done.
4
Try a box braid. If you are transitioning from processed to natural hair, try a box braid as it allows natural hair to grow and is easy to maintain. After washing and detangling hair, part your hair 1 inch (2.5 cm) above the nape of your neck and divide it into 1 inch (2.5 cm) square sections. Braid each section from the roots to the end.
- Secure the ends with a snap-free rubber band or a clip. Continue parting your hair into 1 inch (2.5 cm) sections until all of your hair is braided.
- Rod sets and Bantu knots are also great options to consider if you are transitioning to natural hair. Talk to your stylist if you need help achieving either style.
5
Cornrow your hair. Detangle your hair and divide it into even sections. Small sections will result in smaller cornrows. Choose a section, divide it into 3 parts, and begin braiding it at your hairline. As you proceed towards the end of your hair, gradually add more hair to each part. This will attach the braid to your scalp. After adding all remaining hair to the 3 parts, continue to braid the hair as normal.^{[13]
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- Secure the ends with a snap-free rubber band or a clip. Repeat this process until each section is complete.
Clip or pin the ends of your locks while wet, and dry your hair under a hood dryer (or let it air dry overnight). Take your twists out to create small, spiral curls. Some twists will hold for about two weeks. Twists can also be left in and worn out. However, do not leave twists in the hair for more than two weeks or twists may become dreadlocks.
If your hair is damaged or you want to try something new, start fresh with a cleanly shaven head. For a close shave, use a pair of electric clippers with a guard. Determine your desired length, select the appropriate guard, and evenly shave the excess hair from your head. When shaving your head completely, use an electric clippers without a guard or a razor to remove your hair.^{[14]
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8
Try heated curlers. Heated curlers are an excellent way to style your hair. They come in a variety of sizes and lengths and can be purchased at your local beauty supply store. Heated curlers take about 20 minutes to use. Put them in your hair before starting the day. Part the hair using the tail of a rat-tail comb, and apply the curler in a pattern that is pleasing to you.
- For longer hair, you can put the curlers around the edges of the hair only, or use them to create bangs.
- For shorter hair, it is best to use the curlers throughout the entire hair. Place curlers in straight lines from back to front. Once the curlers cool, remove them, and use a pick to gently move the hair into a pleasing style.
- Experiment with heated curlers until you find the best and most pleasing look.
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Expert Q&A

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Question

How do I look after Afro hair?

Courtney Foster
Licensed Cosmetologist
Courtney Foster is a Licensed Cosmetologist, Certified Hair Loss Practitioner, and Cosmetology Educator based out of New York City. Courtney runs Courtney Foster Beauty, LLC and her work has been featured on The Wendy Williams Show, Good Morning America, The Today Show, The Late Show with David Letterman, and in East/West Magazine. She received her Cosmetology License from the State of New York after training at the Empire Beauty School - Manhattan.

Courtney Foster

Licensed Cosmetologist

Expert Answer

Avoid shampoos and conditioners that contain parabens, phthalates, or petrochemicals.

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Question

How do you style your hair to look thicker?

Courtney Foster
Licensed Cosmetologist
Courtney Foster is a Licensed Cosmetologist, Certified Hair Loss Practitioner, and Cosmetology Educator based out of New York City. Courtney runs Courtney Foster Beauty, LLC and her work has been featured on The Wendy Williams Show, Good Morning America, The Today Show, The Late Show with David Letterman, and in East/West Magazine. She received her Cosmetology License from the State of New York after training at the Empire Beauty School - Manhattan.

Courtney Foster

Licensed Cosmetologist

Expert Answer

Any style that involves teasing will make your hair appear to be thicker. High bun styles would also work, including a topknot or a high chignon bun. These styles gather up the hair on top of your head and give you the appearance of having more hair.

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How do I style African hair for a person who can't use her arms or speak?

Ashley Adams
Professional Hair Stylist
Ashley Adams is a Licensed Cosmetologist and Hair Stylist in Illinois. She completed her Cosmetology education at John Amico School of Hair Design in 2016.

Ashley Adams

Professional Hair Stylist

Expert Answer

Use your best judgment as the stylist and give her a style that you think would look flattering on her. Otherwise, you’d maybe need a translator who is capable of communicating with her somehow.

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Tips

Use coconut oil to strengthen and moisturize hair.

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Helpful 32 Not Helpful 3
Using Argan oil is a great way to strengthen and add shine to your hair.

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Textured hair can be fragile, so be gentle when styling it.

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Warnings

If you have chemically-treated hair, always consult with your hairstylist before trying different products or hair-styling tools.

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Always get chemical treatments at a salon, and always follow your hairstylist's advice.

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