Is there anywhere in the world that consumes as much fish as Japan? And is there a city with as many specialist seafood restaurants as Tokyo? In such a crowded field, how can one small eatery hope to make its mark? In the case of Ubuka, by keeping things simple, flying under the radar — and serving some of the best seafood in town.

Chef Kunihiro Kato opened his modest 14-seater restaurant in 2012 with minimal fanfare. He chose a quiet location on a narrow side street in Arakicho, an old-school low-rise nightlife district close to Yotsuya, far from the bling and bright lights of Ginza, Shibuya or other bustling parts of town.

But word spread fast and Ubuka soon became a favorite of chefs and others in the know. They appreciate the unpretentious setting and Kato's unaffected style. They like that he stays open a bit later than most other restaurants. And — most of all — they love that he offers sophisticated meals made with premium ingredients at prices that rival anywhere else in the city.