Catching the perfect wave is one of the most exhilarating feelings to be had on Earth, and there's still plenty of time left in the summer to get stoked. If you're at a beach with some good curls, these tips will have you riding in no time.
Step One: Get to Know Your Wave
You'll often see surfers staring off into the horizon. They're not doing it just to take in the view; they're studying the waves. The first step of surfing is scoping out the perfect spot. Every beach has its own unique underwater configuration with sandbars, rocks, or reefs. These features affect when and where a wave breaks. Before you go into the water, watch the pattern of the waves, and notice where people are paddling in. If the water's surface is broken in places, this could indicate submerged dangers. Surfline.com is a good place to learn about current conditions and watch live video of local beaches. But if you're without internet access, other surfers may give you the best information. Just make sure to be polite—after all, you're on their turf.
The best waves are shaped like an arc, and they hold that shape as they barrel toward shore. Waves "break" when the top falls over, and the ideal place to catch a wave is in the pocket just next to the breaking point. These places, where the wave is steep but no yet curled over and breaking, are called the wave's shoulders. Often, waves will break in two directions at once, curling in the center first, then spreading out. These waves are ideal since you can ride either the right or left shoulder. Waves that form on rocks or reefs usually have just one shoulder.
Step Two: Paddle Out
Now it's time to get in the water. When paddling out, try to go to the left or right of the breaking waves. You won't be fighting the breaking waves the whole time, and it will be easier. Try to get your timing right. Waves usually come in sets of three or four, and since you stood on the beach and studied the waves for a while, you'll know when there's a pause between sets. That pause is the best time to go.
When you're paddling through the crumbled whitewash of broken waves, keep the tip of the board up so it can pass over the mound of moving white water. Paddle as fast as you can. As you get over the top, prop yourself up with your arms and slide down the wave's back.
Once you get past the whitewater, you'll be paddling into the waves as they're crashing. If a crashing wave is about to hit you head on, there are two things you can do.
If you're on a shortboard (anything shorter than 7'6"), you can "duck dive." The duck dive involves pushing your board into the water to get under the wave. To do it, crunch up and put your knee or foot on the back of the board, and at the same time, straighten your arms to push the nose of the board underwater. Once you and your board are underwater, straighten out your body to allow the buoyancy of the board to bring you up on the other side of the wave. If you paddle hard enough before you duck dive, you should make it through the wave without being pushed back by it. The longer, thicker and heavier your board, the harder it will be to force underwater. If you are using a big board, it may help to practice the maneuver in calm water.
If you're on a longboard, you can "turtle roll." This involves flipping the board so it is upside-down on top of you. Once you are in this position, the wave will pass over. You'll want to add a little push to get your board through the wave, and make sure you keep a tight grip on your board the whole time.
Step Three: Have a Seat
At the more popular surf spots you'll see a line of surfers. They hang out past the breaking waves and wait for a good set to roll in. Find a place in line and wait your turn. Most surfers will keep their noses pointed outwards to watch for incoming waves, and to paddle over them when necessary. But when your wave is coming, turn your board towards the beach and get ready.
Step Four: Paddle Hard
Position yourself so that when the wave reaches you, you'll be on the shoulder. You'll want to be moving at the same speed as the wave as it breaks. This means paddling as hard as you can as soon as you see the wave rolling towards you. Paddle like the water is on fire!
As the wave catches up, keep your center of gravity in the middle of the board. If your weight is distributed too far forward, you'll be thrown off the front (this is called "pearling"). Too far back, and you won't catch it. Keep in mind that there may be other surfers trying to catch the same wave. The rule is that the surfer closest to the peak has the right of way. If a surfer with the right of way is already paddling with the wave, let it pass—just stop paddling and the wave will roll under you.
Step Five: Pop Up
Even if you've successfully caught the wave, you still have to get onto your feet. This is called "popping up," and there are two ways you can do this. You can either push yourself up and hop on your feet in one motion, or you can put your knees down first and slowly rise to your feet. Each method has its benefits, so practice both with your board in the sand before getting into the ocean. It's the trickiest part—you'll have to learn how to find and maintain your balance through the whole pop-up maneuver, or else you'll tip over into the water as soon as you're upright. But practice makes perfect.
Step Six: Ride It In
If you've done everything correctly, you'll feel that unmistakable zooom of momentum as the wave propels you forward. This is the moment you've been working for, so have fun, and maybe even strike a pose.
This article was originally published on WIRED's How-to Wiki. It contains some contributions from readers as well as WIRED writers.
