A house rabbit can be a fun addition to the family. However, these animals will need to have as much care as a dog or a cat. Rabbits typically live 8 to 12 years, so they require a long-term commitment from their owners.[1] There are certain rules you need to follow and preparations you need to make before you decide to get a rabbit. Once you are ready for a rabbit, you can learn to take care of one in your home.

Part 1
Part 1 of 4:

Buying Supplies for a Rabbit

  1. Although your rabbit will be outside of its cage a lot of the time, it should have its own safe haven away from everything else. This is where it will sleep each night and also where it can retreat to when it feels annoyed or unsafe.[2]
  2. The bedding you need for your rabbit will vary. Experiment with different types of bedding to see what your rabbit likes best. Common options are shredded paper, straw, and hay. Try to avoid most wood shavings, because they may inhaled by accident.[4]
    • If you do use wood shavings, avoid cedar, pine, and other scented shavings.
  3. Since your rabbit lives indoors, it will need a litter box. There isn’t one perfect litter box for all rabbits. Your rabbit may prefer boxes with covers, and the height of the sides may also vary, since some may be too high or too low for it. Start with a cat litter box that is big enough for it to lie in comfortably.[5]
    • You may think about getting several boxes. This way, your rabbit will be able to run around the whole house without needing to all the way to the other end of the house to do its business.
    • The type of litter can also change depending on your rabbit. Experiment with different kinds. Common types include silica cat litter, shredded paper, wood shavings that aren’t pine or cedar, straw, and hay.
    • Make sure it doesn't clump and it isn't made of clay. These things may harm your rabbit if it swallows them or breaths them in.
  4. You rabbit will need its own food bowl. Make sure it's made of a heavy material, such as ceramic. This helps the bunny keep its bowl right side up, since most rabbits like to tip their food bowls over.[6]
    • Also ensure the sides are high enough to keep the food in but low enough for your rabbit to from eat comfortably.
  5. Water bottles often come with cages, but it's still a good idea to have a few. It is more natural for it to drink out of a bowl, but these can be knocked over, unlike the water bottle.[7]
    • Water bottles can be annoying for your rabbit. If you see this, switch to a heavy, ceramic water bowl.
  6. The ideal foods for rabbits are grass and hay, which is what their gut is designed to process. Ideally, give the majority of your rabbit's food as fresh green hay. It's important to use good hay. For most rabbits, timothy hay is the best to use.[8]
    • When your rabbit eats hay, it provides necessary fiber for its digestive functioning.
    • You can also line your rabbit’s litter box with hay.
    • Hay also provides a great digging spot for rabbits. These are often extremely entertaining for rabbits, especially if you hide treats, such as pieces of apples or Cheerios in it. You can also use shredded paper as well for a digging spot. [9]
  7. Supplement your rabbit’s diet with a small amount of extruded (each kibble looks the same) pellets and fresh fruit and leafy greens. For instance, you might give them romaine or red leaf lettuce (but not iceberg, as it's not nutrient-dense enough).[10] [11]
    • Avoid giving your rabbit cruciferous vegetables like broccoli, Brussel sprouts, bok choy, and cabbage. These can cause gas in bunnies, which can be very dangerous.[12]
    • Avoid allowing the rabbit around-the-clock access to pellets, as it will probably become overweight and unhealthy. Also avoid rabbit foods with bright colors, nuts, seeds, and fruit in them. These are usually high in sugar and carbohydrates.
    • If you are unsure of what kinds of vegetables to use, ask your veterinarian or local rabbit breeder for their advice on food.
    • Avoid vitamins as a supplement to your bunny's diet. Healthy rabbits really don't need them.
    • Despite common perception, giving a rabbit too many carrots can be very harmful. They enjoy carrots as small treats, but you should not feed carrots to rabbits daily. Weekly is usually fine.
  8. Just like other house pets, your rabbit needs toys to keep them entertained. Buy a variety of toys for it, such as a chewing toy or a tunnel with spaces to go into. You can make some yourself, such as a cardboard box with rabbit-sized holes.[13]
    • A great homemade chew toy is a twig of untreated Applewood tree. Make sure the twig is clean and untreated before you give it to it.
    • If you choose another tree type, make sure it isn't poisonous and leave it to dry for at least 6 months before you give it to your rabbit. Applewood, however, does not require this treatment. Just make sure it's clean and untreated.
    • Make sure you get toys that have different purposes. Different rabbits enjoy different toys.
Part 2
Part 2 of 4:

Choosing Your Rabbit

  1. Rabbits are not low-maintenance animals. They require the same amount of time, money, and care as dogs and cats. They require a water bowl, a high-quality rabbit food, toys, as much exercise as a dog, and a litter tray. Plus they need your daily attention.[14]
    • These animals have their own personalities and take special care. Think about getting a lower maintenance animal if you don’t think you have the time and money to care for a rabbit.
    • You should spend at least 3 hours a day with your rabbit outside of its cage, but it may like more time inside the cage as well. Rabbits will get lonely and depressed if they don’t have enough human interaction every day.
    • If you can’t be with your rabbit long enough each day, consider getting another rabbit. Make sure you house them separately until you properly introduce them so they can bond. Rabbits do not like to share space unless they have been specially bonded.
  2. There are many factors to consider when choosing a rabbit. Decide if you want a specific kind of rabbit and if you want it to have a pedigree. There are many different breeds, which will vary in size and coloring as well as temperament. You also need to decide if you want a male or female rabbit and what approximate age you want your rabbit to be.[15]
    • Do research on all the different breeds if you are unsure of what kind you want.
  3. The type of rabbit you choose may decide where you get one from. If you don’t care much about the specific factors, you can look to a rescue center and choose from their rabbits. These also have the benefit of being older, have usually gone through the awkward adolescent phase, and are typically spayed or neutered.[16]
    • You can also buy from a pet store. The quality of these establishments can vary, so look for a store with well-kept animals and informed staff.
    • If you have a specific kind in mind, you can look to breeders for a particular rabbit type. You may also learn about the lineage of the rabbit. These rabbits also tend to be more socialized when you adopt them, since they have been handled since birth by the breeders.
  4. If you plan on getting a kit, also known as a baby rabbit, you need to follow certain guidelines.
    • If you notice something unusual, ask the owner of the parents about the parent’s personality and temperament. They may act different because you’re a stranger or because you are near their litter.
  5. When you go to get the rabbit, look at the size, color, temperament, and health of the parents to get an idea of how your rabbit will likely turn out. See how the kit responds to you as well. Don't choose the rabbit that cowers against its mother, even if you feel sorry for it, because it will most likely not be a friendly pet. Instead, choose the rabbit that hops towards you and sniffs you. To further help you choose, you need to inspect the health of the kit. Look for things such as:[17]
    • Clean, bright eyes, which do not have mucus, a crust, or other foreign elements in or near them.
    • Clean ears, unobstructed by wax and smell-free.
    • Clean, untangled, and smell-free fur.
    • Being devoid of ticks, fleas, or other parasites on its skin.
    • A lack of clumping or issues in the fur around their anus, as this can suggest major health problems.
    • Responsive and excited, without being overly jumpy or trembling.
    • No outward signs of illness, such as sneezing, nasal discharge, hair loss, or dental issues.
  6. Go to a rescue center or shelter to find an adult rabbit to adopt. Wherever you choose to look for rabbits, find all the adult rabbits. Check to make sure they seem happy and responsive. Avoid rabbits that look mean or are aggressive. They also need to be healthy.[18]
    • The characteristics of a healthy adult rabbit are the same as those for a healthy kit. Check all the outward signs of health, including the eyes, ears, and fur.
    • Shelters are great places to adopt adult rabbits. They are often already spayed or neutered. Plus, you are giving a rabbit a second chance.
  7. Once you check the overall health of the rabbits, you can pick your favorite. Make sure you take your time. The rabbit you choose will spend the next 8 or so years with you, so you need to find a good match. Play with the rabbits you like to find out if it is the right one for you. See if it likes you, too.[19]
    • Remember it may be slightly shy and nervous at first because you’re new to it. Just check for general sign of temperament and socialization.
    • Once you find one, ask some follow-up questions before you take it home. These include inquiries about its eating habits, its litter, and its age.
Part 3
Part 3 of 4:

Bonding With Your Rabbit

  1. When you first bring your rabbit home, you need to watch how it interacts with its environment. Watch where it goes to the bathroom, how it reacts to other people in your household, how it reacts to the toys, which toys it enjoys and ignores, and how it reacts to the room in which you put it.[20]
    • Don’t worry if it just sits in a corner for a few minutes, then eats, then lies down when you first get it. Do not disturb it, no matter what it does. It is adjusting to its new environment.
    • During this first few days, leave it in its cage. Every day, find time to sit next to the rabbit and talk to it in a low, quiet voice.
  2. Once your rabbit seems to get used to you, you can let it out of its cage. Close all the doors of the room its cage is in. If one entrance doesn’t have a door, block it for the time being. Next, let your rabbit out of its cage. Don't lift it out, but open the door of it and let it hop out on its own.[21]
    • Sit in the middle of the room, doing something quiet such as reading, listening to quiet music, or writing.
    • Have some vegetables with you in case it gets curious.
  3. Once your rabbit comes out of the cage, let it hop around on its own. Don't make it come to you and don't move around too much. It will eventually hop over to you, curious about what you’re doing and who you are. When it does, let it sniff you, then offer a small piece of vegetable, about the size of a thumbnail.[22]
    • If it seems cautious, sit still and talk quietly to it. Don't move too quickly because you may scare it.
  4. If your bunny takes some time coming to you, wait for it to do so. If it gets close and it doesn't take the vegetable, simply put it down and go back to your activity. Ignore it until it eventually comes to the food. When it does, let it eat the piece of vegetable you put down.[23]
    • After it eats the first piece, offer it another small piece. If it comes over to eat it then, stay still and talk quietly to it.
  5. Once it comes up to you and lets you feed it, slowly start stroking it on its head after it is finished eating. If it stays still or lowers its head to the ground, keep going. If it flinches or runs away, stop and go back to your activity. You have to wait for it to approach one more time and try again.[24]
    • If it bites you, squeal loudly. This will let it know that you are in pain, which will make it clear to it that it hurt you.
  6. If you are having a hard time bonding with your rabbit, don’t give up! Switch between offering your rabbit a small piece of vegetable, stroking your rabbit, and ignoring it completely. If it approaches you, try feeding it again. If it head-butts you, it wants attention. Stroke it if it does this.
    • Repeat this every few days until you become bonded with your new pet rabbit.
Part 4
Part 4 of 4:

Keeping Your Rabbit Healthy and Safe

  1. When you get a rabbit, you have to make sure you know a vet who can provide the type of care it might need. Find a vet who has had plenty of experience with rabbits and small animals, as their care is different from that of cats and dogs. Then, once you get your rabbit, take it for a check-up to make sure it is healthy.[25]
    • Take your rabbit for regular check-ups, just like other house pets.
    • This will make it easier if you have an emergency with your rabbit, since the vet will already know it.
  2. Make sure everyone in your household knows how to pick up a rabbit correctly. To pick a rabbit up properly, scoop the rabbit up using one arm along the side of the body with the opposite hand under the rear end. As you lift it up, bring the rabbit into the side of your body to give it further support.[26]
    • Rabbits can struggle when they become fearful. They may try to escape from what they see as a frightful situation. They can break their own back in the process, often suffering a fatal paralysis, if picked up incorrectly.
  3. Before you get a rabbit, you need to ensure no harm can possibly come to the rabbit when it hops around your house.[27] Rabbits will chew wires if they see them. Make sure your electrical cords, computer wires, and any other cables are covered or inaccessible. Purchase plastic cable or wire wrap or tubes to get them out of the way.[28]
    • You can also run wires and cable behind furniture or securely along the wall out of your rabbit’s reach.
    • Never run cables or wires or cords under carpet. This can cause a fire.
  4. Although rabbits look like adorable little balls of fluff, they don’t enjoy being cuddled and hugged too much. Rabbits are more likely to be afraid of being hugged, especially if you lean over then and try to pick them up. Since they are prey animals, this reminds them of being hunted by hawks and other birds, which can frighten them.[29]
    • A few rabbits will tolerate being stroked for long periods of time, while most will enjoy it for short periods. Occasionally, rabbits will even nip you when you stop.
    • This will vary from animal to animal. Judge your rabbit’s personality and find the best way to approach and pick it up.
  5. Children, especially rambunctious ones, can scare rabbits. Rabbits will feel as if they are being attacked by a predator if a small child is yelling and screaming around them. Never let a child chase your rabbit around the house or try to pick them up after doing so. The rabbit will feel threatened and may lash out.[30]
    • Many kids aren't gentle and may hurt a rabbit while trying to pet them. Teach kids to be gentle with the rabbit and to speak in low, quiet voices around it. Children 5 years or younger shouldn't have a rabbit.

Expert Q&A

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  • Question
    How can I feed my indoor rabbit?
    Jamie Freyer, DVM
    Jamie Freyer, DVM
    Licensed Veterinarian
    Dr. Jamie Freyer is a Licensed Doctor of Veterinary Medicine based in Washington. With over ten years of experience in clinical practice and industry, she specializes in veterinary medicine and surgery, animal behavior, and animal genetics. Dr. Freyer holds a BS in Life Science from The University of Portland and a DVM from Oregon State University.
    Jamie Freyer, DVM
    Licensed Veterinarian
    Expert Answer
    Make sure that you have a high quality rabbit food, not one that has little fruity bits and things like that, because bunnies are picky, and they'll pick out the good bits and leave the actual healthy stuff. So you don't really want to give them that option.
  • Question
    What do rabbits need in their habitat?
    Jamie Freyer, DVM
    Jamie Freyer, DVM
    Licensed Veterinarian
    Dr. Jamie Freyer is a Licensed Doctor of Veterinary Medicine based in Washington. With over ten years of experience in clinical practice and industry, she specializes in veterinary medicine and surgery, animal behavior, and animal genetics. Dr. Freyer holds a BS in Life Science from The University of Portland and a DVM from Oregon State University.
    Jamie Freyer, DVM
    Licensed Veterinarian
    Expert Answer
    Make sure they have an environment with lots of fun things for them to do, but keep them away from things that are going to be too tempting. They love wires of any sort — especially phone charger wires, those are super tasty!. They also love carpets! Make sure that there's nothing that they can damage or hurt themselves on.
  • Question
    Is mini lop poo dangerous to touch with bare hands?
    Pippa Elliott, MRCVS Dr. Elliott, BVMS, MRCVS is a veterinarian with over 30 years of experience in veterinary surgery and companion animal practice. She graduated from the University of Glasgow in 1987 with a degree in veterinary medicine and surgery. She has worked at the same animal clinic in her hometown for over 20 years.
    Pippa Elliott, MRCVS
    Veterinarian
    Expert Answer
    No. The risk of catching anything infectious from rabbit pellets is very low indeed. Unlike other pet animal species, the vast majority of parasites rabbits carry are species specific- meaning they only infect other rabbits. Of course be sensible and avoid ingesting rabbit pellets, and always wash your hands after handling your rabbit (or any other pet) or their pellets, but the risk is low.
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Tips

  • If you plan on getting a male and a female at the same time, you must neuter and spay them. Remember that even litter mates will breed with each other. Also, female rabbits can become sexually mature as young as 5 months. If you don't neuter the male, it will spray everywhere and will try to copulate with any of a variety of species.
  • Check your rabbit’s teeth once a month. Their teeth can become misaligned and may need trimming. If they are misaligned or you notice a lot of drool around the mouth or problems with eating take them to the veterinarian.
  • Keep your rabbit from overheating. Since rabbits are constantly wearing fur coats, they do best in slightly cooler temperatures.
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About this article

Jamie Freyer, DVM
Co-authored by:
Licensed Veterinarian
This article was co-authored by Jamie Freyer, DVM. Dr. Jamie Freyer is a Licensed Doctor of Veterinary Medicine based in Washington. With over ten years of experience in clinical practice and industry, she specializes in veterinary medicine and surgery, animal behavior, and animal genetics. Dr. Freyer holds a BS in Life Science from The University of Portland and a DVM from Oregon State University. This article has been viewed 278,632 times.
18 votes - 92%
Co-authors: 74
Updated: December 20, 2021
Views: 278,632
Article SummaryX

To care for a house rabbit, feed it a balanced diet that consists of mostly fresh green hay, like timothy hay. You can also supplement its diet with pellet food, fruits, and vegetables. In addition to feeding your rabbit a healthy diet, make sure it has a roomy cage and access to fresh water and a litter box. If you want to make the cage extra cozy, create a nice bed for your rabbit using shredded paper or straw. Finally, don't forget to give your rabbit plenty of toys, like chew toys or tunnels to play in, to keep it stimulated and happy! For tips on bonding with your house rabbit, keep reading!

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