A novel escape in Crete

WE follow the road which weaves and bounces through rural hilltop villages, passing miniature churches the size of dolls’ houses, quaint, whitewashed cottages and myriad olive trees.

Domes of Elounda, CreteDomes of Elounda

Elegant suites overlook private pools and bay with views of Spinalonga

Below us the Aegean sparkles and grows ever brighter as we descend toward the fishing village of Plaka.

I can see the idyllic isle of Spinalonga, Sitting in the middle of the bay, the haunting former leper colony that inspired the bestselling novel The Island by Victoria Hislop.

Having read the book, a tale of tragedy, war and passion, it’s wonderful to be so near... yet so far. We crest the next hill where we find the Domes of Elounda, an extravagant enclave of suites and residences, a mix of Mediterranean style and hushed lavishness.

The resort is at the top end of family-friendly; it has its own helipad and a multimillion pound expansion includes no fewer than three swimming pools.

It’s all incredibly stylish – cool and contemporary yet with a local flavour in its Mediterranean shades of aubergine and turquoise. Even Domeland, the new free children’s club, with Oftsed registered crèche, has modern, domed architecture giving it the feel of an arts centre.

Our daughter Maya, 10, deems herself too cool for that, preferring to swim and play ball games in the huge main pool surrounded by boat-like loungers and oversized beanbags.

We, too, are happy by the pool, eating delicious meals at the Mesoyios restaurant – Cretan salads such as dakos, a variation on a Greek salad with sun-ripened tomatoes, feta and rusk (for me), fish and chips (Maya) and posh burgers (my partner).

A stylish spot with a taste of the past is great for both families and celebrities

A little shop sells mostly buckets, spades and copies of The Island. Domes Luxury Residences have a private eco-heated pool and use of a chauffeured car for trips to the nearby town of Elounda, favoured for its low-profile peace over glitzier spots such as Santorini by everyone from locals such as Onassis in the 60s to Greek prime ministers and more recently Lady Gaga.

Our two-room suite might not have had such elevated attractions but is decorated exquisitely, a celebration of intricate pieces such as mirrored furniture, silver basins, carved wooden stools and decorative chairs in delicate shades like French macaroons.

A balcony with a hot-tub has views over the gardens to the curved outline of Spinalonga.

Our transport is limited to electric buggy shuttles in the grounds; I’m happy to walk through the gardens but Maya delights in it, managing to get dropped off right at our door.

The town of Elounda is renowned for its laid-back atmosphere and famous visitors including Lady GagaGETTY

The town of Elounda is renowned for its laid-back atmosphere and famous visitors including Lady Gaga

One day after multiple trips to the buffet breakfast for fluffy pancakes, sweet pastries, bountiful fruit and excellent coffee we walk the scorching 15 minutes downhill and along the coast to Plaka.

Passing beautifully co-ordinated boutiques selling bracelets and other pretty souvenirs, we buy tickets for the next boat to Spinalonga.

The 10-minute trip offers a cool breeze as well as stunning views along the coastline.

There’s a graveyard, a church and small, low-ceiling houses-turned museums lining narrow streets.

Fortifications nod to the island’s turbulent history as first a Venetian stronghold, later attacked by the Turks.

It closed as a leper colony in 1957 yet the island remains barren and desolate. I imagine how it must have been to be confined here with signs of life so near yet so far, visible across the turquoise water.

Despite the history there are plenty of children (and a shop selling fresh orange juice and ice-cream).

Crete was birthplace of the first advanced European society, the Minoans ruling over much of the Aegean 4,000 years ago.

There are remains of this mysterious civilisation at the Palace of Knossos and archaeologists have pieced together ancient recipes.

Domes of EloundaDomes of Elounda

Beautiful suites in Elounda

Jerolyn E Morrison, a potter and anthropologist with a niche PhD in archaeology on Minoan cooking pots and cooking, hosts Minoan Tastes, an evening of food served by her and fellow archaeologists at beach restaurant Topos 1910 in the hotel’s annual gastronomy festival.

We are greeted by the sight of earthenware pots, simmering away on charcoal-filled stoves with fragrant cuttlefish with greens, chicken with vine leaves and figs and rabbit with rosemary, white wine and roasted almonds.

There’s salad of all descriptions including delicately sliced fennel, pear and endive, octopus and vine leaves.

On the last night on the terrace we stand and admire lights across the hillside above the bay. There are mojitos for the adults, a virgin piña colada for Maya.

She insists on a buggy back to our suite. It might not be how the Minoans did it but it works for us.

A 10-minute boat ride to Spinalonga is like taking a trip back in timeJo Fernandez

A 10-minute boat ride to Spinalonga is like taking a trip back in time

THE KNOWLEDGE

Tots Too (020 7284 3344/ totstoo.com)offers seven nights at Domes of Elounda from £3,155 (family of four), B&B, in a family suite with outdoor Jacuzzi.

Price includes return flights from Gatwick to Heraklion and transfers.

Greek Tourism: visitgreece.gr

For more information click here

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