How to Care for Damaged African Hair

Co-authored by Jessica Davis

Last Updated: February 14, 2023 Approved

Caring for African-textured hair can be difficult to manage, due to its coarse, kinky, and often dry texture. Perms, hair coloring, and heat can make matters worse with split ends, dull and lifeless appearance, and inability to hold curls. No worries — with this guide and a little patience and consistency, you can restore your hair to health.

Part 1

Part 1 of 2:

Caring for Damaged Hair

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1
Trim away damage if possible. Caring for damaged hair is a long, difficult process, and it will likely never return to full healthy. If you're not willing to cut your hair short, consider trimming away split ends, a common problem in damaged hair.^{[1]
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- Repeat the trim every 4–6 weeks, removing all the split ends you can find. Leaving damaged ends in place will not help your hair grow out.
2
Exfoliate your scalp. To begin your hair care mission, apply a scalp preparation to remove buildup from sebum and hair products. This will create a healthy environment and provide nourishment to the scalp and follicles.
- Besides removing sebum buildup, a good scalp preparation product provides hair-strengthening vitamins and soothes dry, irritated scalp. Ask a salon to recommend a product similar to Scalp Prep.
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3
Protect the ends of your hair. Every week, seal away the ends of your hair with shea butter. For further protection, sleep on a satin pillow, or with a satin or mesh scarf over your hair.^{[2]
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Research source} Cotton or fleece pillowcases will pull your hair out and cause breakage.
- If you have extra-porous hair, shea butter may makes your hair feel limp and greasy. Try a light moisturizer instead, or a light oil such as jojoba oil.
Leave-in conditioner restores natural oils without requiring water. Put this in your hair daily to encourage health and shine.
5
Shampoo and condition regularly. Mild, all-natural shampoo and conditioner can help your hair recover from chemical overload. Washing once a week is recommended for most people with damaged African hair.^{[3]
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- Let your hair air-dry, or pat it dry with a towel. Do not rub or blow-dry damaged hair.
Hair damaged by coloring or relaxer is often low on protein. Once every two weeks, apply a protein treatment to restore strength. Follow label instructions for best results.
7
Deep condition weekly. Every week, massage a moisturizing conditioner into your hair. Hold your hair over steam to encourage the conditioner to penetrate your hair's inner layers. Put your hair up and leave it in for at least a couple hours, or overnight.
- A hot oil treatment can provide similar benefits.
Cornrows, plats, or twists help reduce damage from exposure. Even if you wear your hair down during the day, put your hair in one of these styles before going to bed.
9
Brush and comb your hair regularly. Work out tangles gently, without yanking your hair. Damaged hair breaks easily when combed dry, so add a small amount of conditioner or water.
- For best results, use a brush with rubber bristles, such as a Denman brush.

Part 2

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Preventing Damage

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If using chemicals is an absolute must, wait for as long as you can between treatments. If possible, wait for 2 inches (5cm) of new growth before the next application.^{[4]
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Trustworthy Source

American Academy of Dermatology
Professional organization made of over 20,000 certified dermatologists

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Henna is an all-natural treatment that will color your hair and help condition it at the same time. Try this instead of damaging your hair with hair dye and bleach.
3
Use heat protectant before all heat treatments. A quality heat protectant will reduce damage from heat. Add this to your hair before blow-drying, using a flat iron, or any other styling treatment that involves heat.^{[5]
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Trustworthy Source

American Academy of Dermatology
Professional organization made of over 20,000 certified dermatologists

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- Look for a heat protectant that also provides nutrients to improve shine and texture.

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Tips

Good hair starts from within so eat healthy and drink plenty of water to keep your hair moisturized.

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Opt for a shampoo, conditioner and hair oil free of sulfates and petrolatum, which tend to cause damage to your hair.

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Opt for a boar bristle brush, they don't tear and stretch your hair.

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Warnings

Make sure your braids aren't too tight, they strain your scalp and cause bumps.

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Stay away from perms, hair dye, and heat. Let your hair grow out naturally.

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Do not grease your scalp, as this can clog your pores and lead to breakage and damage.

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